Tailored Dinner Suits

Indeed, it was conceived as a more casual alternative to evening dress, for smaller, more relaxed engagements and still to this day is very much seen as an evening garment.

The term black tie suit descended from white tie suit, which was the official attire for evening formalwear (and still is in ‘high society’). The black tie suit only became the tuxedo when it crossed the Atlantic. Just so there is no ambiguity: dinner suits, black tie suits, dinner jackets, DJs and tuxedos are all the same garment.

How to choose a dinner suit

 

The dinner suit must be made from a cloth that compliments the way you wear it.

Eg. If you party hard the fabric will need to be hardwearing.
If you sweat the suit needs to be lightweight
(NB both of these can be achievable at the same time if you choose the right cloth).

The jacket must not be fused (glued)

Fused jackets do not respond well to dry cleaning. The heat melts the glue and as it cools it causes the front of the jacket to wrinkle.

Ideally the suit should have a fully floating (or semi-floating) canvass, which uses hundreds of tiny stitches instead of glue to ensure durability.

Off the peg / factory made jackets are fused. Good quality bespoke jackets are canvassed.

The suit must fit you well.

Otherwise it will strain when you move and tear.

And you will look like an idiot if you wear a suit that doesn’t fit you!

The suit must have in-built seam allowances

If you are not wearing it very often you want the suit to last decades if you are to get value out of it.
If the suit has seam allowances then as you get older (we mean fatter!) you can have the suit let out without having to replace it.

Needless to say, to achieve any of these goals a bespoke dinner suit is by far the best option.

When to wear a black tie suit / dinner suit / dinner jacket / tuxedo.

Weddings
We always advise our customers who are attending formal weddings (especially their own) that if the ceremony begins before sunset a morning suit is more appropriate, whereas after sunset the dinner suit is the ideal formal attire.

Events
As a result, dinner suits are seldom worn as wedding suits, but are usually favoured on special occasions, often where Dinner, Dancing and Drinking (three of King & Allen’s favourite ‘D’s!) are the mainstay of the evening.

Check your invite carefully. If your hosts wish you to dress formally they will specify:

• - Black tie
• - Dinner Suits
• - Tuxedos
• - DJs
• - Dinner Jackets
• - Formal attire
• - Formal suit

 

If the invite does not mention any of these terms then a lounge suit is probably the most appropriate attire. If in doubt, err on the side of smart.

How to wear a black tie suit / dinner suit / dinner jacket / tuxedo.

At King & Allen we believe there are basically three types of dinner suit, depending on how modern you wish to look. All of these styles are dictated by the jacket lapel.

The most modern is the peak lapel dinner suit. The peak lapel is favoured by the more haute couture Italian fashion houses. Because it is a little different it stands out and is very much from the designer suit style.

The second style is the notch lapel dinner suit. This suit is timeless in its style and will never go out of fashion. It is a very ‘safe’ option and many feel that it looks too much like a regular suit. If you are quite an understated person this may be the option for you.

The third style is the classic shawl collar DJ, as favoured by Mr Bond. This is the original dinner suit design. Because of the long shawl collar there is far more satin on display. Not only does this give the suit a more opulent feel, it stands out as black tie more than any of the other options.

Different styles suit different people better, according to height, weight, personality and requirements. Please contact us for advice on which will suit you the best.

 

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