So how do you choose a lounge suit?

 

The cloth.

The cloth dictates the colour, the texture and the pattern of the suit.

 

Colour.

Most lounge suits look best in variations of greys and blues. In general, the lighter colours look more summery, and the darker colours look best in the evening, and are more flattering on the body. Every man should own a black suit, to be worn with a crisp white shirt for an evening event, and for funerals.

 

Texture.

Texture is defined by the weave of the cloth you choose, and its content. A wool-mohair blend, for example, has a slightly reflective finish, whereas a barathea is very matt. The texture of the cloth will affect the way the suit hangs, and how crisp it looks.

 

Pattern.

Pattern can be as subtle as a herringbone or has conspicuous as a windowpane check. In general I would avoid pin stripes unless they are different or interesting, since they are traditionally the reserve of the business suit, and this is a style we are trying to steer away from.

 

The Fit.

The fit is the relationship between your body and the suit. If the fit is wrong the suit will look and feel off-balance and uncomfortable. Ideally a lounge suit should be cut so that the first button you do up is positioned at the narrowest point on your torso. This is because the aim of the suit is to accentuate the shoulders and chest and then curve in to this point where the button does up. The suit then splays over the seat to create that perfect fitted silhouette.
The same rules apply for the trousers – they need to be cut so as to provide the perfect balance of a defined, tailored finish and yet be comfortable and practical. This can only be achieved by having the suit cut for you by a tailor who not only understands your measurements but also your posture.

 

The Cut.

Lounge suits are usually cut as a single breasted 1 or 2 button, ensuring a longer lapel that ends at the narrowest point of your torso (see 'The Fit'). I normally recommend slanted pockets on a lounge suit to accentuate this tailored curve. The design of the lapels can also help define the lounge suit: the 'notch' lapel being the more timeless, English style, while the 'peaked' lapel has a more European, Italianate styling – it has slightly more flare to it, the peaks drawing the eye away from the centre of the suit thereby broadening the shoulders and again, accentuating the fitted aspect of the suit.

 

Style Options.

A lounge suit offers far more enjoyment of the style options than the business suit: Contrast stitching on the boutonniere and/or sleeve cuffs can add a touch of colour; jet pockets can add a more minimalist feel; a ticket pocket can add asymmetry. All King & Allen suits feature a built-in pocket square for an added touch of 'the dandy'.

 

I think the most important aspect of choosing a lounge suit is to enjoy it – make it a reflection of your personality – a chance for you to show to people that you are a man or woman of impeccable taste and style… who knew? Book a fitting.